John Kusters Jr.

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Scouting Report: Final Thoughts

2026-05-22 /

As our scouting trip in Spain wraps up, it’s time to start thinking about what’s next.

We both have Barcelona at the top of our list. But Barcelona is definitely the priciest option, so we’ll need to figure out if we can make it happen (more on this in a bit). From there, it gets a bit tricky. My second choice is Valencia; Michael’s is Alicante. Alicante is my third choice, and Valencia is third on his list. We both put Málaga fourth. After lots of discussion, we’ve agreed that if Barcelona isn’t in reach, we’ll try landing in Valencia. After all, as we keep telling each other, where we land doesn’t have to be where we make home.

The first thing is to start preparing for the visa application. We’ll need a lot of documents; many of them will need to be apostilled and translated, and several have short time periods of validity. This will be complicated by the fact that the requirements published by Spain’s government really are more like guidelines, and the staff at the consulate are free to interpret them. Yay. We’ll definitely be hiring Spanish experts to help us here.

While that process is going, we’ll be finding a Spanish tax expert and hiring them to run simulations for taxes in both Barcelona and Valencia. And we’ll be putting together spreadsheets to track things like rental prices and other expenses. Once we know what the Spanish tax situation will look like, we’ll contact our financial adviser and see what effect the taxes will have on our retirement plan, whether the tax will drain our accounts faster than is safe.

We also need to radically accelerate the purging of our possessions and getting the house in shape for sale. We’ll probably be doing giveaways of books, DVDs/Blue-ray discs, art supplies, electronics, houseplants, artwork, and even furniture for local friends (keep your eyes open if you might be interested). We’ll look into donating the remainders, and for everything else, an estate sale, I suppose.

When we move will really depend on when we get our visas (assuming Spain approves them) and how fast we can get the house ready to sell. Our local consulate only has a few spots each month, and they fill up fast. We’re planning to start looking for visa appointments in mid-summer, aiming to get one in September. But it’s probably going to be in October, November, December, or even later.

So, that’s pretty much our plan for the rest of the year. We’ve got one more vacation lined up (a cruise, of course), which will give us a nice break in August. But otherwise, I’m expecting moving to Spain to be our main focus for a few months.

Scouting Report: Málaga

2026-05-21 /

The last of the four cities we are considering as a new home, Málaga is the third largest, beating out only Alicante in terms of population. Though, technically it’s the largest in terms of area. Strange.

Going in, we knew the city has some pros and cons. On the “con” side: it’s a beach city and knows it, connections to the rest of Spain go through one rail route, and the airport is small, there’s a lack of a robust public transit system (two metro lines and a bunch of bus routes), and it’s the warmest of the towns on our list. On the “pro” side: a well-known pedestrian promenade that runs along the shore, with all sorts of bougie shops and restaurants along its length, many historical sites, including some from the time of Roman occupation, and since it’s in Andalusia, it has the lowest wealth tax hit of all of the cities we’re considering.

As a reminder or the criteria we were using to evaluate the neighborhoods:

  • Walkability: we want to be able to ditch cars entirely and utilize walking and public transportation
  • Café Life: a variety of cafés and restaurants to be able to dine at, preferably al fresco when the weather allowed
  • European Charm: several story buildings (but not too many stories), with interesting architectural details, balconies (usually tiny), and painted in bright colors
  • Green Space and Public Life: parks, plazas, promenades, and other places to sit, read, observe, and socialize
  • Lots of small stores where daily shopping could occur
  • Enough people on the streets for a vibrant feeling, but not so much that it felt crowded
  • Lack of nightclubs or other facilities where loud music would be heard late into the night.
  • Proximity of stores that support our hobbies (in our case, knitting, tabletop gaming, and art)
  • A feeling of safety and comfort for a gay couple in our later years
  • Places that supported a sense of culture and lifelong learning

So, what did we think?

La Malagueta

The first neighborhood on our list was La Malagueta, a spit of land that pokes out into the sea, right up against the port, and home to the city’s bull-fighting ring. Yeah, Spain still has the “sport” of bullfighting. 🤮

On the way to La Malagueta, we walked along the Paseo del Muelle Uno, the promenade that runs between SoHo and La Malagueta. It’s definitely a port road, since there were several yachts tied up alongside it, and there were departure gantries for taller ships. Along the length of the promenade, there were all sorts of shops and restaurants aimed at tourists, including some portions that resembled a street craft fair. We also spotted a Starbucks, a Dunkin’, a Burger King, and a KFC. Bonkers! Follow the Paseo far enough and you’ll run across the Malaga cruise terminal. We did stop for breakfast at a Granier along the Paseo. It was significantly more expensive than the ones we had visited in Alicante and Valencia. No real surprise there.

Anyway, there are a lot of high-rises in the La Malagueta area, many are rather modern looking. That’s really not the European charm we have been looking for. It’s a small neighborhood so we were able to see quite a lot of it in our visit. There were sections that felt like a ghost town; no pedestrian traffic, few stores that seemed to be in business, a lot of graffiti. And then a little bit further, vibrant stores with plenty of foot traffic. Most of the foot traffic though seemed touristic in nature, and was generally concentrated in the south-eastern part of the neighborhood. My husband mentioned it felt a lot like some of the beachfront areas of Fort Lauderdale, with high-rise apartment buildings and upscale restaurants and shops. But only in a small, several block area.

La Malagueta reportedly has one of the nicest beaches in the area, but neither of us are “beach people” so we didn’t really even look. We found a nice park area next to the Fuente de Colores where we rested. I was entertained because there were people feeding the pigeons and wile parakeets there. I hadn’t seen wild parakeets in other parts of Spain be so friendly with people. After resting, we walked up the length of the neighborhood, found some nicer, yet still not European quaint, buildings and shops, then passed the Bullfighting ring on the way back to our hotel. Overall, we didn’t feel this neighborhood matched our requirements well, so we skipped checking out the night-time vibe.

Between La Malagueta and SoHo is a very lovely park, with lots of shade, beautiful plantings, and plenty of birdlife. We found a nice bench to stop and do our usual knitting and reading thing, with a steady stream of passers-by and the sound of pigeons and parakeets. My husband also took advantage of this park several times during our stay to find a bench to sit, knit, and engage in people-watching. Unfortunately, there isn’t much housing with close proximity to this park, so I’m not sure if this is something we should consider when looking for a city to live in.

SoHo

Our next neighborhood was SoHo, which was where the hotel we’re in is located. It was named “SoHo” with the intention to inspire a renaissance of art and culture in the area, inspired by New York’s area with the same name. The gambit seems to have paid off. It’s also a rather small neighborhood, so we were able to cover a good amount of it. We did find a huge comic book/gaming/collectible store (next door to our hotel) and a very nice bookstore in the neighborhood, which was good (more on the bookstore later). At the gaming store, I picked up a Spanish edition of the 20th Anniversary Edition of Brandon Sanderson’s first published novel, Elantris. Maybe it’s a silly thought, but I had the idea that a fantasy book I’m already somewhat familiar with would be a good foray into broadening my reading comprehension of the language. We also found a supermercado-style convenience store that seemed to be geared towards Russian immigrants. SoHo is filled with many smaller streets, along with a good handful of promenades, those walkable paths, often filled with cafes and restaurants. There seemed to be a fair number of restaurants with outdoor seating (something my husband is looking for), but not as many cafés as we’d like. There were several gelato stores, though.

SoHo abuts the Guadalmedina river on its western border, and we walked along that for a bit. At the moment, it’s barely a trickle of a creek, but we could see that it could get full during rainstorms. This area seemed to have several museums and theaters along it, which could be a place we’d frequent if we chose to settle in Malaga. However, just one street over, it seemed that most of the storefronts were vacant, which was quite the contrast.

We found some benches along the Alameda Principal (the main street through this part of Malaga) where we rested, read, and knitted. There was a bookstore near where we had camped out and I went to check it out. Being Sunday it was closed, but one of the displays was dedicated to a new book by a local author, “Ciudad de Sal” by David B Gil. An English translation is due to be published later this year. It intrigued me enough that later in the week, I visited the very nice store and picked up a copy.

After resting at the hotel, we found a nice italian restaurant for dinner, and then wandered around for a bit. While restaurants were busy, there didn’t seem to be much in the way of nightclubs, so it was possibly quiet in the evening. Of course, it was Sunday, so who knows what the noise level would be like on Friday evening.

Many of the buildings had the character that we are looking for, and there were some suitably sized apartments for rent here. It also had the only rainbow flag that we saw hanging from a balcony in the entire city. While we did encounter some people and couples that pinged our “gaydar”, the lack of rainbow flags in this city weighs heavily on me, especially compared to Barcelona and Valencia, where they were fairly common in the neighborhoods we are interested in. A lot of hotels in this area, so not as much residential space available. Overall, we think we could live here fairly well, especially since it’s close to both Centro and a metro stop.

Centro Histórico

Next on our list was Centro Histórico, which, as the name suggests, is the historical center of the city. Some of the city’s most known landmarks are here, including a number of very old churches and cathedrals. It is also home to the city’s largest central markets, which we wandered through and found to be very typical of these kinds of markets, even if the aisles seemed narrower than others. It definitely was livelier than other markets we’ve visited on the trip, and less touristy than some. I could see us shopping there for meats, breads, vegetables, and fruits. Oh, and spices. They had some wonderfully diverse spices.

Centro absolutely abounds with the European charm we’ve been seeking. Buildings between four and eight stories above ground, many with those small balconies, with lots of beautiful wrought iron decorations. The streets are all higgledy-piggledy, with blocks placed at odd angles compared to one another, but eminently walkable. Very little car traffic, though delivery vans were evident. Much of the middle of the district is pedestrian only, which is good because there were a lot of people wandering along those areas. There are tons of restaurants, some with patio seating when the sidewalks were wide enough. The famous Marques de Larios pedestrian mall runs south from Plaza de la Constitución, and it’s where all of the big fashion brand names have their stores. From YouTube videos, we know that street is the epicenter of Malaga’s Christmas decorations. There were also several museums (the Picasso museum is somewhere in Centro, but we were not looking for it) and theaters, so there’d probably be plenty to do. I even found what looked to be a really nice art supply store (which was closed when we walked by).

Unfortunately, there were very few parks in this part of the city, and the plazas we found were mostly tree-free, and benches were generally in the full sun. The other major problem with Centro is that it is ground zero for all of the tourists in the town. We’re in the “shoulder season” as far as tourism is concerned, and it was already a very lively part of town. Restaurants were crowded, streets were packed, and it was touristy-loud. If I knew this was the level of liveliness that Malaga experiences year round, I’d be fine with it. However, the peak season runs from June through September, and I shudder to think of what the crowds will look like then.

We did manage to find a shaded area with a bench. Well, the bench was part of a planter for a huge ficus tree, but it was still quite nice to rest there and do our usuals.

For dinner, I had located a Mexican restaurant in Centro and wanted to see what the Spanish interpretation of Mexican food was like. It was tasty enough, familiar flavors and dishes, though they were slightly different than what we are used to in California where authentic Mexican restaurants and taquerias abound. We did note that they did not offer the American-customary chips and salsa. I don’t know if we could have requested some; I don’t think they had any on the menu. After dinner we walked around trying to gauge the nightlife. There were several nightclubs, but perhaps we were there too early because most of them were closed. But if anything the neighborhood was livelier in the evening than it was during the daytime, including roving bands of 20-somethings belting out Spanish songs at quite a high volume.

If it weren’t for the crowds, Centro would definitely rate high on my list of potential neighborhoods in Málaga. But the threat of tourist crowds, and how much harder it would be to get a table at a restaurant there, is a heavy deterrent. Better to live somewhere less touristy and head into Centro when desired or needed.

La Merced

The fourth neighborhood we toured was called La Merced, and it sits on the northeast border of Centro. It was a neighborhood that was more on my husband’s list than mine.

On our way there, we passed the ancient Roman amphitheater and the path up to the Alcazaba. Since we were on a schedule and didn’t have time to play tourist, we sufficed with what we could see of both by walking by. Once we’re living in Spain, be it in Malaga or elsewhere, we both want to come back and explore these attractions. But perhaps not in a time when it was full of groups of student tours.

La Merced was much smaller than either of us had expected. There was a nice plaza with plenty of Jacaranda and Mimosa trees, with some benches in the shade, but that was about it for La Merced in terms of outdoor places where we could spend time in the shade. Otherwise, it had a strong character of a working-class neighborhood. Some stores, but many vacancies, graffiti, and weathered infrastructure. More vehicles here and fewer pedestrians. Also, as I discovered as I perused Idealista, Spain’s most used website for apartment listings (rental and sales), virtually no apartments over 100 square meters, and most with two or fewer bedrooms. Since we are looking for 3 beds and at least 120 square meters, we determined that La Merced was not a good fit for us. Ah, well. At least we got to see the ruins of an ancient Roman amphitheater along the way to the neighborhood.

We didn’t find any other resting places, but did find ourselves near the place we had rested the previous day. Since we had already decided La Merced wasn’t viable for us, we chose to spend our rest time in Centro and then find lunch as we walked back towards the hotel. We found a nice, but tiny, fast Italian restaurant, which I would definitely try again. We rested at the hotel and then found a burger joint in SoHo for dinner.

Huelin

Our final neighborhood for Málaga was Huelin. My husband was attracted to it because of its lower cost and a large park on the neighborhood’s border. But it’s outside of the central city area, so we had to use the Metro to get to it. (Which obviously means we’d need to use the Metro to get to the city center if we chose to live in Huelin.) On the way we hit up a Granier just outside the main El Corte Ingles for Malaga.

The metro station itself was very nice, and felt rather new. Very clean as all of the Metro stations we visited on the trip were. It also felt oddly spacious, like it should have a lot more going on in it, but was primarily open space with the occasional video billboards. After boarding the train, our stop was only a few stops away.

Huelin quickly revealed itself to be a working-class suburb, but one with a lot of one-story buildings surrounded by buildings that were much taller. It did have a small central market, which had all of the staples, and it is served by a good-sized supermarket (which we didn’t visit), so food shouldn’t be a problem. But there weren’t very many other “daily life” amenities. We didn’t really see any cafés and no hardware stores (they could have been on streets we didn’t visit), but we did see a couple of “lots of random Asian-made products” kinds of variety stores. There were green spaces, but mostly in the private courtyards of large apartment buildings.

We did wander around Huelin Parque, and found it to be quite nice with several kid playgrounds (segregated by the size of the children), an artificial lake, a dog park, a rose garden, and lots of benches. The park was actually quite busy with lots of families and elders. It was difficult to find benches in the shade that were not adjacent to children’s playgrounds. So that’s where we would up to read and knit. Oh, well. No-one seemed to care.

On the way back to the hotel, we found a street with a number of restaurants, so we grabbed a quick (and tasty) lunch. But in the end, we both agreed that while it had some nice points, Huelin wasn’t somewhere we wanted to live. We found a different burger joint (a sister of one that we had found in Alicante) in Centro for dinner.

The next day was a laundry day, but that didn’t take long, so we wound up venturing into Centro again to stop by a yarn store that had caught my husband’s eye, where he bought some skeins and double point needles since he had managed to snap some of the ones he had brought with him on the trip. We also stopped by a small but well stocked art store. I didn’t buy anything there but stoked my burgeoning interest in watercolor.

Conclusions

In the final analysis for Málaga, there were one and a half neighborhoods that could have made good homes, which isn’t much. We did find the kinds of stores that would allow us to continue pursuing our hobbies should we choose to live here, but the areas that had the most charm also had the most issues due to tourism. I really wanted to fall in love with Málaga, since it would be the least expensive city for us, specifically due to its much lower wealth tax. But I just didn’t love it as a home. It’s a place I’d love to visit on a regular basis, including during the holidays, but it did not feel comfortable enough to want to live here.

Scouting Report: Alicante

2026-05-13 /

Alicante is a city in the Valencia Autonomous Community, sitting a little further south on the Mediterranean coast. It’s a smaller city than Alicante, the smallest population of the four cities in our list. Unlike Barcelona and Valencia, the city’s beaches are adjacent to the city core. Its “expat” community has a low percentage of Americans, consisting largely of people from Northern Europe. After doing a lot of research online, we had narrowed our neighborhood search to four: Garbinet, Mercat, Centro, and Ensanche-Diputación.

Our hotel was situated on the main street running through town, and directly across from Mercado Central, the biggest (and only?) mercat in the city. The hotel was easy walking distance to three of the four neighborhoods, and the Tram station to the fourth was relatively close. I’d definitely recommend the Hotel Eurostars Lucentum for people wanting to check out the city.

As a reminder or the criteria we were using to evaluate the neighborhoods:

  • Walkability: we want to be able to ditch cars entirely and utilize walking and public transportation
  • Café Life: a variety of cafés and restaurants to be able to dine at, preferably al fresco when the weather allowed
  • European Charm: several story buildings (but not too many stories), with interesting architectural details, balconies (usually tiny), and painted in bright colors
  • Green Space and Public Life: parks, plazas, promenades, and other places to sit, read, observe, and socialize
  • Lots of small stores where daily shopping could occur
  • Enough people on the streets for a vibrant feeling, but not so much that it felt crowded
  • Lack of nightclubs or other facilities where loud music would be heard late into the night.
  • Proximity of stores that support our hobbies (in our case, knitting, tabletop gaming, and art)
  • A feeling of safety and comfort for a gay couple in our later years
  • Places that supported a sense of culture and lifelong learning

Garbinet

The first neighborhood on our list was a place called Garbinet. This was one that my husband really wanted to check out, based primarily, as I understand it, on the amount of green space shown on map apps in the neighborhood.

First, though, we had breakfast at a churrería, Cafeteria Churrería Calderón, I found near the hotel. The churros in this part of Spain are not covered in cinnamon-sugar; instead, traditionally, they are served with a hot chocolate dip, which is delicious! 

After that, we got to Garbinet via one of the city’s trams, and as soon as we got out of the trolley car, I was certain I would not want to live there. It felt very suburban despite all of the high-rise, very modern-looking apartment buildings. While most blocks in other neighborhoods we’ve visited on this trip had stores on the ground floors with apartments above, almost all of the areas of Garbinet we visited had no stores at ground level unless the building was on a main road. We didn’t find much green space that wasn’t in enclosed apartment building courtyards. There were very few people out and about, but a lot of cars driving around. There were also very few grocery stores, and few of the little convenience stores that we’ve seen all over the other neighborhoods. Big parking lots spotted the area, and despite the dense population, it felt very car-centric.

We did find a shaded area in the median of a wide boulevard, with several benches for our daily “knit & read” time, and it was near a dog park. There were several people out waking their dogs, some on leashes, some not. We did see a few pairs of people who might have been same-sex couples, but it’s hard to be sure. There was also constant traffic noise.

In the end, neither of us thought the neighborhood was a good fit for us, so we opted to get lunch and dinner close to the hotel.

Mercat

Second on our list was the Mercat neighborhood, which features the city’s central market, our first destination. This one was a little different from other central markets in other places in that they put all of the meat vendors (and most of the seeds/nuts/legume vendors) on one floor, and the fish market and the vegetable market in separate areas of the lower floor. Most of the fish stalls were closed since it was Monday. I think I prefer central markets where the various kinds of vendors are intermixed, though I can’t say why. My husband had hoped we’d find breakfast in the market, but there wasn’t anything that really appealed, so we wound up at a Granier, a chain of cafes we’ve seen everywhere. A safe place when we’re out of spoons.

While at breakfast we noticed a lot of people wearing green shirts headed towards the Plaça Dels Estels, a roundabout in a significant intersection. It seemed a major protest for a city of that size. At the time we couldn’t figure out what the gathering was all about, but later research said it was a school strike.

We then did our neighborhood stroll. We noticed that the Mercat neighborhood had more one-lane streets and narrow sidewalks, and little car traffic. Some of the streets were tree-lined, which we always appreciate. There were fewer open stores along the streets, and more storefronts with “for rent” signs. The buildings definitely had the European charm thing going for them, though. Small balconies were common. Also, a lot of street art on longer stretches of wall, which we liked. Very few grocery, meat, or vegetable stores, though. Perhaps the residents there were comfortable going to the central market? I don’t know. While the neighborhood had the European charm thing going on, the lack of active storefronts made the neighborhood feel less vibrant, more subdued.

We did find a nice park to spend time in, Plaza Santa Teresa. Lots of trees, a monument to a former city mayor who led the city through a time of virulent disease, and even a little grotto for private rendezvous, though it was gated closed while we were there.

After such a rich breakfast neither of us was in the mood for lunch. So we picked up some junk food at a nice supermercado/convenience store, and went back to the hotel. For dinner, I found a nice Persian restaurant, Casa Tehran, which had good reviews. The staff were very friendly, but I got the feeling that for most of our meal we were the only people in there that weren’t members of the owners’ family. The food was quite tasty though.

While it wasn’t as bad as Garbinet, I didn’t put this neighborhood high on my list.

Centro (and a little of Barrio Santa Cruz)

The next day was all about Centro. This neighborhood has quite a few streets that have been converted to pedestrian malls or promenades. (There’s one on each side of the hotel we were staying at.) There’s a lot of foot traffic through these areas and lots of food, shopping, and nightlife to be had. There is also a very active stage theatre in the neighborhood. It’s very lively, especially at dinner time. Kinda noisy, but I didn’t hear any loud “thump thump” of big nightclubs. There was also a pedestrian mall that was painted in vibrant colors with giant, whimsical (fiberglass?) mushrooms along its length. The buildings in this neighborhood are definitely full of European charm, and there were some really nice parks, including one with some very old ficus trees, Plaza Portal de Elche, where we did our usual knitting and reading. This neighborhood also includes part of the well-known Explanada de España, a marble-tiled promenade that runs over 500 meters along the shore in Alicante. We walked along a small section of it. There are also a lot of restaurants along the Explanada, including some of the big American chains, and it had a lot of tourists and a lot of crowd noise. 

After dinner in a popular pizza restaurant halfway through the neighborhood, we wandered through part of Barrio Santa Cruz, an older part of town that presses up against the hill where Castell de Santa Barbara sits. It’s one of the oldest parts of the city, and one of the most expensive. We didn’t go up into the steeper parts, but what we saw included some beautiful buildings, an ancient church that we had seen in various YouTube videos, and quite a few lively restaurants. After all that, Centro could make a good home. It’s very walkable, has many amenities and green spaces, but there are parts I’d fear being too loud in the evening and night.

Ensanche-Diputación

Finally, we spent a day in Ensanche-Diputación. Of all of the neighborhoods in Alicante I had researched, this one was the most interesting to me. It fell somewhat short of my high expectations, but not significantly so.

This is a slightly newer part of the city compared to Mercat or Cento, and this was reflected in the architecture. Not much in the way of quaint and decorative buildings (what we’ve been calling European charm), but more had balconies, and they were larger. This neighborhood was very grid-aligned but had much fewer pedestrian malls. We did find what I’m calling “geek row” with two comic book stores (one with a good selection of novels and TTRPGs), a board/war/role-play game store, and two different nerdy collectibles stores all in the same block.

We did find that more of the stores in this neighborhood were flourishing, with quite the variety of retail offerings. It just felt more vibrant. This neighborhood also features two branches of the major Spanish department store, El Corte Inglés. Think of it like Macy’s, though in this case, one of those branches features a supermarket. Many of the streets were one way, similar to Centro, but there weren’t any pedestrian promenades that we found. There were some green spaces especially towards the southern end of the neighborhood.

In the evening dinner visit, I chose a place near a couple of nightclubs, only one of which was open at that point (21:30 or so). Absolutely quiet outside, few people on the streets. Very little car traffic as well as long as we avoided the bigger streets. As far as Apple and Google Maps could tell, there’s a total of four nightclubs in Ensanche-Diputación, so I don’t think noise will be too much of a problem.

Conclusions

So, four neighborhoods, one of which was a complete dud, and two of which could work if we chose Alicante as our new home. We are of mixed opinions of the city though. I felt it small, subdued, and without a visible queer presence. My husband loves the pedestrian malls of Centro and the relatively larger number of parks compared to Valencia. While the geeky stores were definitely a plus, we could not find a yarn store in the city core, which may be a down note for him.

Overall, I’m less impressed with Alicante compared to Valencia and Barcelona. It is a smaller city, and it feels that way. Not as great of a variety as the previous cities, and it feels quieter, more subdued. It’s also on a slope, so there’s a bit of an altitude change going from one part of the city to another. I very much appreciate the flatter terrain of the areas we visited in both Valencia and Barcelona! There are also fewer interesting attractions. Other than the beautiful promenade along the beach and a couple castles, there don’t seem to be many in the way of tourist attractions in Alicante. Despite that, some of the areas we visited felt full of tourists.

The tax situation in Alicante would be pretty much the same as in Valencia, which is a concern to us.

One thing that grew more unsettling as we spent several days here was that I never saw a Pride flag hanging from a balcony, posted near store doorways, or anywhere else. The laundromat we used at the end of our visit did have a bunch of small rainbow flags hanging from the ceiling, along with a Picasso-inspired mural along one wall. We did see a small number of queer couples walking around, but otherwise, there was no gay presence we found in Alicante. Quite the contrast to the other cities we’ve visited, and one I did not like.

Addendum: while there is no official Apple Store in this city, there is an authorized reseller whose interior copied the look and feel. While I’d rather have an actual Apple Store, this reseller would do in a pinch. Yes, having an Apple Store is a selling point for me.

Scouting Report: Valencia

2026-05-08 /

The next city on our list was Valencia (or València in Valencian). From our initial online research, this city was high on my list. Let’s see how it fared.

As a reminder or the criteria we were using to evaluate the neighborhoods:

  • Walkability: we want to be able to ditch cars entirely and utilize walking and public transportation
  • Café Life: a variety of cafés and restaurants to be able to dine at, preferably al fresco when the weather allowed
  • European Charm: several story buildings (but not too many stories), with interesting architectural details, balconies (usually tiny), and painted in bright colors
  • Green Space and Public Life: parks, plazas, promenades, and other places to sit, read, observe, and socialize
  • Lots of small stores where daily shopping could occur
  • Enough people on the streets for a vibrant feeling, but not so much that it felt crowded
  • Lack of nightclubs or other facilities where loud music would be heard late into the night.
  • Proximity of stores that support our hobbies (in our case, knitting, tabletop gaming, and art)
  • A feeling of safety and comfort for a gay couple in our later years
  • Places that supported a sense of culture and lifelong learning

We took a regional train from Barcelona to Valencia — one that topped out at 200 km/h, which, from this Californian’s perspective, is still impressively fast. Valencia’s main station, the Nord Estación, is a delightful building that was undergoing renovation during our visit. Since our hotel in Sant Francesc was just a short walk away, we arrived on foot feeling fairly pleased with ourselves — until we discovered the oddly shaped lobby, which made hauling all our luggage in a single trip something of a puzzle. The staff at the front desk were warm and welcoming, and our room came with a balcony overlooking the pedestrian mall below, which my husband happily claimed as his own.

The neighborhood itself is quite upscale, centered around the city hall and the beautiful plaza fronting it. High-end boutiques line the streets — not quite on the level of Barcelona’s Passeig de Gràcia, but close — and tourists were a noticeable presence even in May. It never felt truly crowded, though that’s likely a function of visiting in the shoulder season rather than the height of summer. Charming as the area is, I suspect we’d grow weary of the tourist foot traffic over time; if it’s already this busy in mid-spring, I can only imagine what July must look like.

We did explore a bit of Sant Francesc during our first day there, walking around the city hall plaza and finding a candy store where we indulged our sweet tooths. Dinner was at a pizza place close to the hotel. We followed it up, as we often do, with gelato.

There were nine neighborhoods I wanted to visit during the week we were in Valencia, several of them close enough together to make it possible to visit more than one a day.

Russafa (or Ruzafa in Valencian)

A very short walk from our hotel, this neighborhood is reportedly one of the centers of nightlife in the city. The center of the neighborhood, according to the map, is a mix-mashed bunch of small streets meeting at strange angles. But this is where most of the restaurants, clubs, and shops are located. The outer areas of the neighborhood were more grid-like and open.

It was a fairly busy neighborhood when we visited during the daytime. We spent most of the time in the central area of the neighborhood, and it was busy. Not surprising since it was Saturday. We did have trouble finding a cafe for breakfast, but eventually found one on a major street on the edge of the neighborhood just south of the Ciudad Vella.

After breakfast, we tried to find a knitting store my husband had located. Unfortunately, while the listing of open hours indicated it should have been open that day, it was not. Such is things with online information in Spain; it’s not a priority to keep it up to date. We then visited the Mercat de Ruzafa, and found it similar to the mercats we had seen in Barcelona. Plenty of meat, fruits and veg, cheeses, and other products common in the central markets of Spain.

We did wander around the neighborhood, finding more restaurants and bars, but not as many of the small convenience stores that seemed so common in Barcelona. (This would be a trend throughout the city, a striking difference between Barcelona and Valencia.) As I mentioned, the streets in the center of the neighborhood were narrow, one lane one-way streets that met at odd angles. It would take me some time to learn to navigate the area.

We took our afternoon pause in the median park between the lanes of Carrer de les Filipines. Nearby was Parc Central. My husband was interested in exploring that, but I was in need of rest, so I let him go off whilst I read a book. He was gone longer than I expected, but I had not expected the park to be as big as it was. When we return, I’ll have to explore it as well.

For lunch we found a place that advertised a plethora of chicken sandwiches. The food was good, but there were a number of smokers around us on the outside dining area, which made it less enjoyable. After lunch we walked back to the hotel to rest up before dinner.

I had seen a burger place called the Black Turtle, with an English menu, during our stroll around the area, so we returned there for dinner. I was still feeling full from lunch so I had an interesting interpretation of a Caesar Salad while my husband had some kind of cheeseburger. My husband was reminded of why I avoid Pepsi products in Spain (and Europe in general): they contain artificial sweeteners, even the sugar-filled drinks. I don’t understand why. We followed dinner up by visiting one of the oldest gelaterias in Valencia (supposedly) where my husband got some chocolate with black cherry gelato. My stomach was still protesting, so I chose not to get anything.

Ruzafa is supposedly the center of nightlife in the city and kind of the center of gay life. We weren’t fond of the central region of it, with its cramped and irregular streets, but the outer areas were nice enough. There were a LOT of beautiful buildings with great architectural details. When we visited in the evening, some intersections where restaurants and bars were clustered were rather loud on a Saturday. So Ruzafa would end up in the middle of the list.

Rest Day: City of Arts and Sciences & Turia Gardens

Since we figured many stores in the neighborhoods would be closed on Sunday, we took this day to do our one tourist thing for the trip: visit the City of Arts and Sciences. We took a tram from a stop near our hotel, which was super convenient.

OMG, this place is amazing. I can see why so many TV shows and movies use it as a futuristic filming location. We did not go in any of the buildings (well, we strolled through part of the open air arboretum), but when we come back, I plan to. There’s a world-class aquarium, a hands-on science museum, an IMAX planetarium, an opera house which also hosts contemporary concerts, and more. Its gigantic!

After walking around the “City” we wandered into the adjacent Turia Gardens, one of the “Green Lungs” of Valencia. It is a 8.5 km long park that runs along the old river bed of the Turia River (which has been re-routed elsewhere). It was built after a particularly disastrous flood in 1957. It wraps around the Ciudad Vella (the old city), is crossed by several bridges, and each segment was designed by a different urban planners and designers, each with its own attractions and amenities. It’s really quite a wonder. There are walking/running and biking lanes the length of the park, lots of picnic areas, sculptures, fountains, and arbors. We didn’t walk the entire length, but we did find a nice place to sit and do our usual afternoon knit&read.

After our rest, we walked back towards the Tram but spotted a shopping mall, and realized we were crazy hungry. We wound up getting sandwiches at a Subway (slightly different sandwiches and dressings than the US version), which were pleasant enough. We didn’t explore the mall much, since all the walking in the park had wiped us out. Dinner was at a nearby Italian place where we started with a provolone fondue and I had a caramelized pineapple and ham pizza, and my husband had some gorgonzola risotto. We were stupidly stuffed after that.

Gran Via/Cánovas and Pla del Remei

We took the Tram to Gran Via the next day, getting three day passes to all of Velencia’s public transportation options. It was quite a bargain.

Gran Via, also known to locals as Cánovas, was quite nice, and is probably top of our list. Just a basic residential neighborhood with larger, though pricier, apartments. Lots of tree-lined streets, quaint architectural details, shops and restaurants. My husband enjoyed the chamfered corners of the blocks which allowed for interesting intersections, some of which were equipped with parklets. We walked the length of the neighborhood and wound up in Turia Gardens, where we shaded bench to knit and read. We then headed back into the neighborhood, along a different street, to find lunch.

We also visited Pla del Remei in that excursion. It’s the more upscale version of Cánovas, with an appropriately higher price tag, but we both loved it. Many beautiful buildings, lots of upscale shops, an El Corte Ingles (the major department store of Spain), and a metro stop in the middle. Along the way we discovered the Mercado Colón, and explored it. It was very different from the other mercats we’ve visited, much more restaurant and bar-oriented, but there was a carniceria on the lower level. We used the Metro to get back to the hotel.

For dinner we found a “food truck” restaurant in Gran Via that served grastonomic abominations. But they were tasty enough. We then walked up to the area we had been told was where nightlife was located, between Gran Via and El Pla del Remei, the Plaça de Canovas Castillon. It was nice, but apparently Mondays are almost as dead as Sundays, so it wasn’t really hopping.

Ciutat Vella & Extramurs Part 1

We visited El Botànic, El Carme, El Mercat, and a bit of El Pilar all in one day. They are smaller neighborhoods, El Botànic being part of Extramurs (“outside the walls”) and the other three being part of the old city (Ciutat Vella).

El Botànic didn’t really thrill us. The only real green space was in the Jardi Botànic, which cost money to enter. While the buildings had European charm, the sidewalks were narrower, making the neighborhood feel cramped. The lack of trees along the streets made them feel more exposed to the sun and thus warmer. The city’s most well known “Bear bar,” Bubu, is in this neighborhood but we didn’t visit it since the street it was on was under construction. There also weren’t as many stores and restaurants in this neighborhood, which made it difficult for us to see ourselves living there.

After being disappointed with El Botànic, we decided to wander into Ciutat Vella and wound up in El Carme. My research had informed me that El Carme is often considered one of the gay neighborhoods in Valencia, but I didn’t really see it. Apparently, at one point, it had a history as a center of LGBTQ+ nightlife and alternative culture, but that has now moved to neighborhoods like Ruzafa. What El Carme did have was lots of narrow streets meeting at odd angles, a LOT fewer cars, broad sidewalks, and it was VERY touristy. We did find an open yarn store, which we visited, where the shopkeepers easily switched between Spanish and really good English. We also toured a tiny little mercat there that was mostly restaurants but did not feel particularly lively. After that we walked through El Mercat, home to the biggest Mercat in Valencia, which was closed by the time we got there, and walked through a part of El Pilar on our way back to our hotel (stopping for more candy along the way).

We didn’t care for any of these neighborhoods much. The fact that there was very little public transportation available in that part of the city really knocked those areas off our list.

Extramurs Part 2: Arrancapins and La Petxina

Arrancapins and La Petxina were both similar in nature to Cánovas, but with a more working-class price tag. Primarily residential with some big schools and medical districts. One of the big gaming stores I had found in my research was in Arrancapins, though it was closed for “arrangements” when we stopped by. Petxina is also adjacent to the northern end of Turia Garden.

They are both adjacent to one of the Metro lines, so we took that from our hotel to the edge of Arrancapins and wandered around for a while. Many of the streets were tree-lined, some of the corners had benches to rest on, and there were a couple of streets that had been converted to pedestrian malls. There were plenty of restaurants around, and they seemed more geared towards Spaniards than tourists, unlike the previous neighborhoods we visited. We found one of those pedestrian malls for our knitting and reading time.

After lunch, we walked northward into La Petxina, which continued the charm of Arrancapins. We walked all of the way up to Turia Garden where some sports facilities filled the width of the park. One of them had a banner advertising the upcoming Gay Games. Having already had our sitting break, and having walked quite a bit, we didn’t explore that part of the park and opted instead to head to the Metro station so we could return to the Hotel.

We returned for dinner, and wound up at a place claiming to be “Tex-Mex”. It wasn’t really. But we did find food we were interested in eating, so that’s fine. After dinner we wandered around the neighborhood a bit more to see if there were any nighttime red flags. There weren’t, really, at least not in the areas we saw.

This region is probably number two on our Valencian neighborhood list.

El Pla del Real

Lastly, we visited El Pla del Real (primarily Expocisó and Mestalla). This seemed an odd mix of upscale and working-class. There’s a huge football stadium in the middle of it, and a bunch of buildings that looked like 70s-era public housing, built during the end of Franco’s reign. There were parts of it we liked and parts that felt uncomfortable (though not as much as El Raval in Barcelona). There was a nice part where we did our usual knitting and reading. We did get a few odd looks since we were sitting near a children’s play area without any children being around. As we were wrapping up our visit we did find an amazing Mexican fast-food restaurant there, so not all bad. But the area did not feel like somewhere we’d want to live, so we chose not to return for the nighttime check.

Conclusions

Comparing Valencia to Barcelona, there are pros and cons for each. We found L’Eixample in Barcelona to be eminently more walkable and comfortable, but apartment rental prices are much higher, and available units were few and far between. On the other hand, Valencia has a booming rental market in the areas we’d consider living in, lots of available apartments at reasonable prices. Taxes would effectively be higher in Barcelona than Valencia, but not by a huge amount. While Barcelona has all the Gaudi stuff, Valencia has Turia Park, the City of Arts and Science, an amazing zoo, and one of the most amazing central markets in the region. I could see us living in either city, but am leaning towards Valencia due to its higher affordability yet still feeling like a big city.

Next on to Alicante!

Scouting Report: Barcelona

2026-04-30 /

We arrived in Barcelona on April 21, took a recuperation day, then started visiting our target neighborhoods, one per day. Our strategy was to head there early-ish, get breakfast, wander around for a while, find a shaded area with benches for people-watching and knitting (my husband) or reading (me). After a few frustrating days getting hangry as we searched for breakfast in our target neighborhood, we changed the plan to get breakfast close to the hotel, but continue with the rest of the agenda.

What were the criteria we were using to evaluate the neighborhoods?

  • Walkability: we want to be able to ditch cars entirely and utilize walking and public transportation
  • Café Life: a variety of cafés and restaurants to be able to dine at, preferably al fresco when the weather allowed
  • European Charm: several story buildings (but not too many stories), with interesting architectural details, balconies (usually tiny), and painted in bright colors
  • Green Space and Public Life: parks, plazas, promenades, and other places to sit, read, observe, and socialize
  • Lots of small stores where daily shopping could occur
  • Enough people on the streets for a vibrant feeling, but not so much that it felt crowded
  • Lack of nightclubs or other facilities where loud music would be heard late into the night.
  • Proximity of stores that support our hobbies (in our case, knitting, tabletop gaming, and art)
  • A feeling of safety and comfort for a gay couple in our later years
  • Places that supported a sense of culture and lifelong learning

Here, arranged in chronological order, are my impressions of the neighborhoods we visited.

Sant Antoni (Part 1)

This was our post-travel recuperation day, but we didn’t feel like spending the day in our hotel room. So, being curious about what “central mercats” were like, we ventured out into Sant Antoni, easy walking distance from our hotel. Sant Antoni’s central market was laid out in a cross formation. Around the outer aisles of the cross were mostly clothing and accessory stores. Pushing further into the interior we found carnicerias, fruterias, vegetable stores, nut merchants, spice merchants, and a few candy shops. The center of the market was all fish and seafood vendors (not my thing). Not much in the way of bakeries. Everything was so fresh! I could see ourselves shopping at a place like this for basic groceries.

After we completed our tour of the market, we found a seating area in a pedestrian plaza nearby in the shade where we did our first of many afternoon breaks. We spent a couple of hours there before the wind picked up and we decided to head back to the hotel room. We got dinner nearby the hotel, and enjoyed a quiet evening.

L’Antiga Esquerra de L’Eixample

Technically our hotel was in Esquerra, but my husband wanted to test out the Metro, so we took two trains into a distant part of the neighborhood. We surfaced near a major hospital. As we wandered around the neighborhood, my impression was, at first, that there were a lot of medical offices in the area. It felt less like a neighborhood people lived in, and more of a district that people visited for professional services. But walking out into the outskirts of the neighborhood, it started to feel more residential. We did wander through their central market, Mercat del Ninot, which had a supermarket underneath. Very convenient!

Foot traffic in the neighborhood was good, there were plenty of people waking the sidewalks, shopping in stores, and enjoying meals. It felt gently lively and vibrant. It felt comfortable. When we returned in the evening, it was a bit more busy, but since it was a kind of a holiday, it seemed that couples were out celebrating. It passed our “busy but not terribly noisy” test.

The holiday I mentioned was the Feast of Sant Jordi (or Saint George in English). We did not know this until, relaxing in our hotel room between lunch and dinner, we started hearing the sound of a parade in the street below our window. We went downstairs to investigate but we had apparently missed the parade, but could hear it down the street. As we walked in that direction, we found the sidewalks were much busier than they had been earlier. Then, we spotted a bunch of pop-up canopies in a nearby plaza (Plaça de la Universitat). It was a Sant Jordi faire, a celebration of the city’s patron saint. The tradition in Catalan regions is to exchange roses and books on the holiday, and this plaza was full of booksellers and florists. Of course, I could not pass up the opportunity to buy some books, and we also got a Sant Jordi plush dragon, as one does.

El Raval

The next neighborhood was El Raval, and since there was no easy metro or tram route to it, we walked the several blocks to it, arriving at the northern end of La Rambla del Raval. After getting breakfast, we wandered the neighborhood and visited its Mercat. This area felt like a mixture of working class and immigrant neighborhoods. Smaller apartments, very few visible air conditioner condenser units, narrow streets and narrow sidewalks, a greater variety of restaurants featuring foreign cuisines. The people on the street were from all over the globe. But it often felt like we were being eyed suspiciously. It was mildly uncomfortable.

The mercat in El Raval (Mercat de la Boqueria) was busier than the one in Esquerra. We noticed there were a lot more tourists there, and many more stalls that were selling take-away food. Given that this mercat was very close to the Gothic Quarter, one of the most touristy areas of the city, I theorized that the mercat was a tourist destination. It was difficult to move around in there, but we gave it a good look. There was a Dunkin’ and a Starbucks just outside the mercat, lending weight to my theory that it catered more to tourists than the other markets we had visited so far did.

After that, we retired to some benches in the Rambla for our now-customary knitting and reading. I was entertained by the flock of wild parakeets screeching and flying around the palm trees that lined the Rambla. Unfortunately, our relaxing time was spoiled by not just one but two attempts by thieves to steal our bags. Thanks to our situational awareness, peripheral vision, and the fact that the straps of our bags were wound around our arms, neither attempt was successful. Still, it really soured us on the neighborhood, so we returned to the hotel and crossed El Raval off our list.

L’Eixample Dreta

We took the Metro to this neighborhood and popped up in the middle of an intersection of pedestrian malls. Lovely! We breakfasted at Boldú, a cafe that sold doughnuts in the shape of meeples. As we wandered this neighborhood, we were delighted by the number of tree-lined pedestrian malls, more than anywhere else we had found outside of the area known colloquially as “Gaixample”. The area definitely felt upscale residential, and we found it a good fit for what we were searching for.

We visited the mercat, Mercat de la Concepción. It had a plant store/florist at the entrance, which was awesome! The market itself was similar to the other markets we visited, but without the tourist focus. Again, we could see ourselves doing our semi-weekly shopping there.

We then wandered further, eventually coming to Passeig de Gracia, the street on which all of the major clothing and luxury goods outlets could be found. There are also two different Gaudi-designed apartment buildings. It’s a broad street, with broad sidewalks, trees and benches, and lots of retail. We took our break in Plaça de Catalunya, near the Apple Store. More wild parakeets, too many pigeons, and people of all walks of life and social status. It was fairly comfortable to rest there, no feelings of impending theft.

After a lunch of paninis, we returned to the hotel. We ventured back to Dreta to determine what the nightlife scene was like. We actually found the noise level had increased along some of the streets from the daytime levels. But nothing like full-on nightclub level “thump thump” music. If we avoided living on one of those more lively streets, we could be very comfortable there.

Gaixample

Technically this was a rest day, but the gay neighborhood of Barcelona, Gaixample (say “gay zhampla”), was adjacent to our hotel, so we wandered around that area for a while. This is a roughly five by four block area where there are many gay-owned or gay-catering shops, restaurants, hotels, and more adult businesses. There are rainbow flags everywhere, quite an assortment of bars (including two bear bars across the street from each other, Honey and Bacon). This is the area on our trip where we felt most welcomed and safe. It’s super pedestrian friendly, lots of charming European architecture, and quirky stores. If we could live anywhere in Spain, without considering money, we’d both love to live in this neighborhood. Unfortunately, apartments for rent are few and far between, and the prices are very high. This, on top of the higher hit for us from Spain’s wealth tax in the Catalonia autonomous community, means we’re not likely to find something with our budget in Gaixample. Oh well.

El Poble-Sec (and Sant Antoni Part 2)

This neighborhood borders on Montjüic, and we could see that the streets along the residential area started climbing the hill the further south they went. We did find a nice pedestrian mall that ran parallel to Avinguda de Paral-lel. Unfortunately that pedestrian mall had very little shade, benches, or pastry shops. We did find something when we wandered out to the Paral-lel, so we did not perish from starvation.

El Poble-Sec definitely had a “working class” feel to it. Smaller stores, smaller apartments (according to Idealista), and the streets other than Paral-lel were smaller and less grid-aligned. It was obviously not designed by the people responsible for L’Eixample. The area is known for certain streets full of tapas bars and drinking dens. There were a scattering of parks and green spaces around, but not enough to make up the deficits of this area by our criteria.

We didn’t even stay there for lunch, but chose to wander back to our hotel through Sant Antoni for a meal. We did not return to El Poble-Sec to see what the nightlife was like there. We already knew we didn’t want to live in the neighborhood.

Gràcia

Originally a village outside the boundaries of Barcelona proper, the area was subsumed into the city as the city grew and grew. It is claimed to be the center of the Catalan independence movement in the city of Barcelona, but while we saw Catalan flags everywhere they did not seem more prevalent there than other places in the city. What was more prevalent though was the use of Catalan, with very little Spanish or English. Personally, with my teensy bit of Spanish, I found signage to be rather challenging.

We tried visiting the Mercat de l’Abaceria, only to find it surrounded by chainlink fence and heavy construction equipment. Disappointed, we wandered towards a green space along Passeig de St. Joan. Along the way we discovered a nice park in Plaça de John Lennon. We could not figure out why it had been named for the famous musician. (I’ve since learned that he stayed there for a four-day holiday once.)

The park running between the streets that make up Passeig de St. Joan contained a number of interesting things: a lively bocce area with several courts, various statuary, plenty of trees and benches, and the temporary home of the Mercat de l’Abaceria, which we did wander through. We took our rest shortly after and enjoyed the atmosphere. Unfortunately though we tried to stay in the shade, the sun kept finding us.

When we went searching for a dinner location in Gràcia, we came up empty. Nothing looked appetizing, sadly. Nearing the edge of hangry, we settled for the familiarity of McDonalds.

The fact that we found it hard to find somewhere we could both eat, and the dominance of Catalan language, led to our deciding that Gràcia was not for us.

Conclusions

Barcelona is a stunningly beautiful city, at least in the right places. Other places are a little scary. But that’s true of most cities.

I feel we accomplished our mission: we’ve selected three neighborhoods that could suit our needs. L’Eixample Dreta, Sant Antoni, and L’Antiga Esquerra de L’Eixample. All of them contiguous with one another, and coincidentally the gayborhood, Gaixample, is more or less in the middle of the three.

That said, Barcelona is likely the priciest of the four cities we’re visiting this trip, and is definitely the most impacted by the housing crisis here. We’d be fools not to acknowledge that, and the negative aspects of us renting here. We shall see if Barcelona remains at the top of our list when we’re done with the trip.

One of the unexpected delights we’ve experienced is seeing places in this city we’ve visited in previous trips to the city. That church, this restaurant, this park, that pedestrian promenade. We are typically approaching them from a different direction than we originally experienced them, so sometimes the recognition arrives late, but it’s always a pleasure. Well, except for the hotel that’s under reconstruction.

© 2026 John Kusters Jr.

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